La Faba

La Faba is a small hamlet tucked beneath the crest of O'Cebreiro in the Galician Monte del Bocelo. The 13th day was all rain and with elevation the rain turned to spitting snow and sleet. I stumbled into the first shelter I found, "El Refugio" and there I was warmly greeted by Miguel and given some hot tea.

Looking around, El Refugio was unlike any other alberque that I had encountered. It has an ecletic, polycultural, hindu hippie throwback vibe. Mongolian throat song music was on the sound box. 

I liked it immediately.

Just opened since this January, El Refugio is communally owned and run by 5 idealistic young people who equally share in the labors and divide the meager fruits. They're working very hard to establish a unique presence on the camino. Sabina, who showed me around, seemed a bit surprised when even after she explained the workings of the toilet/wash closet, I said I'd stay the evening.

Turkish Shiitr
Turnaround and back in.
Assume a relaxed and natural posture.
Remember - aim is everything.

That night I was a dinner guest with a doctor (Adolena) from Barcelona, Sabina and Simon. We had dinner together - a wonderful heaping pasta bowl with a hot sauce made of olive oil infused with sun dried tomatoes, wine, turmeric, chopped chili peppers, and other "secrets" all pureed together with tomatoes and poured over mostaccioli mixed with sautéed spinach and onions. This was followed by a huge salad with all kinds of sprouts, beans and legumes, wine, fresh baked bread and a dessert of coffee and goat yogurt with fresh strawberries and sugar.

These young people are passionately trying to change their world for a new and better way by creating an atmosphere of local community and holding globalism at arm's length. As much as is possible, they want to be self sufficient, grow and make the food they serve and provide a back to basics experience for the peregrino.

As the night came to a close the reality set in that this refuge is a donative and a discussion was needed. A donative is an alberque that doesn't have prices - it's no charge, if you wish. But donations are needed and there is an expectation that you give what you can. Or what you feel the deal is worth to you. So after such enjoyment - it kind of hangs there. An imminent feeling of guilt.

Dinner was splendid. The place was cold and needed a stove. I had to eat wrapped in old woolen blankets. The bunk room and wash facilities were ... very basic - no heat, no washbasin, a Turkish toilet and essentially a hose - but clean. And then, I really liked these people - so warm, so sincere, smart and energetic. What to donate?

I put my arms around Simon and Sabina and asked, "This is hard. You're worth more than I have. What do you suggest?"

In unison, "No - no. Whatever you want. No problem."

So I asked for paper. I folded and tore it into 8's. The dinner was easily worth $7 Euro, so that was the base. I added 10 (more than the bunk was worth) to set the upper at $17 euro. And then together we wrote 6 values in between.

I folded the 8 and put them in a wooden bowl. We were enjoying the game and lots of teasing. Raising the bowl and shaking we formed a tight circle and started a whooping dance. Simon drew, laid the folded paper on the table, and then did a chant hopeful of good fortune.

Open ... and --- $14 EURO!!!  WaaHOOO!   All were delighted. No loosers at El Refugio. After all the laughing and joking subsided, we said good night and off I went with my wool blankets to sleep on a hay straw stuffed mattress.

 


I came upon a child of God
He was walking along the road
And I asked him, "Where are you going?"
And this he told me...

I'm going on down to Yasgur's Farm,
I'm gonna join in a rock and roll band.
I'm gonna camp out on the land.
I'm gonna get my soul free.

We are stardust.
We are golden.
And we've got to get ourselves back to the garden.

Then can I walk beside you?
I have come here to lose the smog,
And I feel to be a cog in something turning.

Well maybe it is just the time of year,
Or maybe it's the time of man.
I don't know who I am,
But you know life is for learning.

We are stardust.
Billion year old carbon.
We are golden, caught in the devil's bargain
And we've got to get ourselves back to the garden.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRjQCvfcXn0